The stallion offers 2.5 output joules of power which is ideal for controlling electric fences on small to medium size farms. It’s a great unit for rotational grazing and has proven itself for many years. The cyclops brand offers the best, lightning protection for fence, chargers on the market. Check out more at www.valleyfarmsupply.com for other brands we sell.

We offer the best prices on all cyclops brand electric fence chargers made by Taylor fence in Ashville, Alabama. This electric fence chargers are the only American made units available that are reliable and dependable for your rugged farm situation’s. Our customers don’t have time to worry about an electric fence not working and their livestock getting out. Feel secure when you purchase your last electric fence charger from us.

Check out more at www.valleyfarmsupply.com for other brands we sell.

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Please see photo:

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Check us out a www.cyclopsfence.com or at www.cyclopselectricfence.com

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Prices for the Shock Box start at $400 (charger and battery are extra). Valley Farm Supply sells packages with boxes and different size Cyclops chargers. Many states offer grants and funding for using solar, which can help pay for the units, Remsberg adds. Contact: FARM SHOW Followup, Valley Farm Supply, LLC, P.O. Box 198, New Providence, Penn. 17560 (ph 717 786-0368; www.valleyfarmsupply.com; valleyfarmsupply@aol.com. 

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Thank you for your interest in becoming a dealer for CYCLOPS FENCE CHARGERS. As one of the best , most reliable and fastest growing Electric Fence Energizer brands in North America, Valley Farm Supply is always looking for strong dealer partners in strategic markets.

please email us at VALLEYFARMSUPPLY@AOL.COM for pricing and details.

Once you have submitted us an email, a Dealer Sales Representative will contact you to provide you with additional information about becoming a dealer.

Thank you once again for your interest in Cyclops electric fence chargers.

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Our business, Valley Farm Supply, sell many higher quality brands of fence chargers. This includes Gallagher, speedurite, staff, Patriot, Parmak, and Cyclops. WE had the cheaper brands like zareba, red snapper and power wizard, but had so many customer complaints and returned fencers… We had it and dropped those economical brands.

We have been so happy to sell Cyclops units. They are well priced, have all the power needed, and easy to service.. Please visit one of our website where we feature the cyclops brand of electric fence chargers. www.cyclopsfence.com and www.cyclopselectricfence.com

Visit us for the best prices and free shipping. We look forward to being the largest seller of cyclops fence chargers again in 2020.

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Speaking of Power, Buy the cyclops Boss Fence Charger. IT has an amazing 32 joules of power for under $800. Wow that a hot unit!

Then we also offer the Hero for smaller farms. Most models come in Solar powered, 12V Battery Powered of 110V AC Mains Powered units..

Check out our site to purchase you last fence charger from CYCLOPS. www.cyclopselectricfence.com

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NEBRASKA STATE OF EMERGENCYAfter last week’s blizzard & heavy rainfall, many rural Nebraska communities and ranchers are in dire need of assistance. The flooding caused devastating damage to homes and ranches as well as loss of life & livestock. As people are trying to salvage what they can, help is needed.If you wish to send monetary donations use the links below:https://www.nefb.org/get-involved/disaster-assistancehttps://nebraskacattlemen.org/disaster-relief-fund/If you can volunteer or have hay, feed, fencing supplies, or other needed physical items to donate, please use these links: https://www.nefb.org/ag-disaster-exchangehttps://www.tsln.com/priority/main-carousel/nebraska-blizzard-flooding-resources/To read a news story, click HERE.Thank you for considering donating to help rural America!

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Schedule of Events – Surviving Tough Times

Dear Fellow Graziers,
Lancaster County Graziers is planning their 26th annual grazing conference on Tuesday and Wednesday, February 19 and 20, 2019. Note change in location!New meeting address is 352 Martindale Road, Ephrata, PA 17522.

The 2019 conference theme is “Surviving Tough Times”. This will prove to be a learning and stimulating time, hearing what our speakers are doing to stayprofitable. Our focus on Tuesday the 19th is survivingtough times and the second day on marketing what you produce. One change will be a phone relay system whereby we can update you by phone about meetingsand changes. So make sure when you fill out yourregistration that we have the phone number that you want to be updated on. If you are not coming to this meeting, but want to be on that hotline please make sure you text me with the name and number you want on the hotline updates.

Tuesday registration will be opened at 7:30 so come prepared to learn. Our speaker line up brings a lot of experience to the table. We have two panels planned, one on surviving price downturns and weather challenges and then one on opportunities in direct marketing.

About some of our speakers: Nathan Weaver Canastota, New York (frequent contributor to Graze Magazine) will begin on Tuesday at 9 am by giving us a picture why we are in this down market. Alan Newport farmer, writer and editor of the Beef Producer will give some hands on ideas that will reduce your costs of operating a grass based dairy beef or sheep operation. Max Kane, CEO of “Farm Match” and Edwin Shank from Family cow will share some differing views about pricing and marketing. If grass management and farm marketing potential, moving into tougher times is of interest to you, this will be an opportunity to learn from many years of experience.

John K. Lapp is in charge of the food. To donate or supply food contact him at 717-733-1766. Good opportunity to advertise your food items. Your donations will be greatly appreciated also. The eveningmeal on Tuesday will be finger food. Bring yourfavorite healthy snack like cheese, meat, gluten freecookies and/or healthy drink (kombucha, kefir etc.).

Roman Stoltzfoos, 717-278-1070, Secretary Exhibitors Contact Levi Fisher, 717-405-9438

Tuesday, February 19, 2019

8:00: Registration – Visit with exhibitors.9:00: Nathan Weaver, The big picture in the

milk business,… how can I survive this?

10:00: Break for coffee and snacks. Network and visit with exhibitors.

10:30: Glen Wise, When to reach for the ejection handle. Life after dairy.

11:15: Alvin Peachy, Changing with the challenges we face.

12:00: Organic and gourmet lunch
1:30: Farmer panel, Nathan Weaver, Alvin

Peachy, John Meulenberg and Levi Fisher

2:30 to 4:00: Panel will be considering your questions.

3:30-4:00: Adjourn, NOTE: Tuesday evening meeting free and open to the public.

5:00: We will enjoy leftovers from lunch and your carry in choices for a light supper.

6:00: Alan Newport, Why grass management is a good way to build soil carbon stores and what that means to the environment.

7:00: Max Kane, Capturing health thru diet and the true value of food.

8:00: Adjourn, good night.

Wednesday, February 20, 2019

8:45: Alan Newport, Hands on survival tactics, grazing technique, building soil with stock density. Time for questions?

9:30: Break-Enjoy a healthy snack, network, visit with exhibitors

10:15: Edwin Shank, How the family farm grows connection and story.

11:15: Max Kane, “From $200 to $1,000,000, how to get customers to pay the high prices you need to stay in business”

12:00: Organic and gourmet lunch
1:20: Amos Miller, Marketing nutrient dense

food. Just for the health of it.

1:40: Panel on marketing. Max Kane, Edwin Shank and Amos Miller

3:30: Adjourn, see you next year.

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Morgan Renner, Wyoming and Montana Territory Manager, one of the largest electric fencing companies in the world, says this may be the most common question he hears. The problem can usually be solved by checking the most overlooked component of electric fencing: how the system is grounded.

He tells his students at the many hands-on clinics he conducts throughout the west, “There are three things to remember about your electric fence: (1) Grounding, (2) Grounding and (3) Grounding!”

Morgan Explains

All energizers provide a pulse of energy that originates from their ‘hot’ terminal then travels down the fence line on a charged or ‘hot’ wire. Most users understand this aspect of electric fencing.  It’s fairly obvious that the hot wires can’t be touching a steel post or laying on the soil surface.  What’s not so obvious is that in the instant when an animal comes into contact with that charged wire, its body contains that energy but is not shocked… yet!

In order to provide a shock and thus the respect for the fence, the energy must travel out of the animal’s feet, through the soil, into the energizer’s ground rods, then into the energizer’s ground terminal.  At that point, the circuit has been completed, and the animal receives the shock.  What I have described is an “all-hot” electric fence, shown below:

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Your first check of your new fence’s voltage gives you a baseline so that future checks can alert you to voltage drops that signal problems. Depending on the strength of your charger, it will emit 6000 to 10,000 volts when nothing is connected to it. After you’ve hooked it to your fence, check the voltage at the furthest point from the charger. Some drop in voltage–1500 to 2000–is normal. A more than 2000-volt drop means either your charger is underpowered for the fence, vegetation or something else is “loading” the fence (touching it, causing voltage to leak away), there’s a short-circuit somewhere in the system–or a combination of these.

If the base voltage on your newly built fence is 4000 or better and everything’s working fine, watch on subsequent checks for an overall voltage drop of 1500 or more. (It’s normal for voltage to be 500-1000 lower in the morning when moisture on the fence, posts, and nearby vegetation can cause temporary current leakage.) Such a significant decrease means it’s time to check for problems and correct them before your horse discovers the fence no longer packs a punch; in fact, many horses can sense when the fence is or isn’t functioning.

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The Basics

Before getting too much into the advantages of solar over conventional grid electricity, let’s review some electric fencing basics. The fencing type you choose, its height, strength, materials, and wire spacing will all depend entirely on what you’re trying to keep in or out.

A properly installed electric fence won’t cause serious harm to animals (or people!) that happen to come in contact with the energized wires. While most electric fencing consists of only a few bare wires strung between some lightweight insulators, it’s an animal’s learned fear of the fence — not the strength of the wire — that keeps the animal contained. Most animals that make initial contact with an electric fence will immediately back up. However, if the energized wires are spaced too far apart, an animal may be able to extend its head through to the other side before touching an energized wire. Feeling the sting further back on its neck, the startled animal may bolt straight through instead of backing up, no doubt dragging your new fence behind it! For this reason, you must use the correct wire spacing and fence design for the animals you’re trying to contain.

Some electric fencing systems use wires that are woven into a brightly colored flat tape or rope. This type of electric fencing material makes it easier for animals to recognize what happens when they get too near and thus remember to steer clear. Larger animals, such as horses and cattle, may be more manageable when using wider electric fencing tape because it’s easier for them to see than bare wire.

One of the newest forms of electric fencing is electrified netting. Woven into this non-metallic netting are tiny electrically interconnected metal strands. This fencing material works to contain smaller animals — goats, chickens, turkeys, rabbits, and even cats and dogs — better than wider-spaced electric fence wire.

Solar Fence Energizers

Electric fencing requires an energizer to deliver pulsed charges to the conductor, usually at or less than one high-voltage pulse per second. Comparing energizers can be confusing because few rating standards are used in their marketing. Some units list their output in volts, while others use joules (the international unit of energy measurement). Some brands advertise how many acres of fencing their unit can energize, while others publicize their power output in miles of fencing.

The best measurement of an electric fence energizer is how many joules of energy it delivers per pulse. A joule equals 1 watt-second of power output, or, more precisely, the amount of work required to generate 1 watt of power for 1 second. The largest off-the-shelf fence energizer I found locally had a rating of 6 joules and was advertised to energize up to 100 miles of fence wire. If this unit failed, all 100 miles of fence wire would instantly become useless. However, if you use multiple smaller energizers, any single failure would mean only one of the fenced areas would become non-energized. Remember that these ratings apply to the total length of wire used, not necessarily the length of the fence. So a 6-joule energizer that can energize 100 miles of fence wire would provide enough power for a 5-wire fence that’s 20 miles long (or a 4-wire fence that’s 25 miles long, and so on). A solar-powered energizer with an output of 0.5 to 1 joule should easily meet the needs of most small-scale homesteaders, providing enough power to energize miles of fence wire or enclose up to 50 acres of pasture.

Most self-contained solar energizers consist of a weatherproof enclosure containing a maintenance-free battery, with a small solar panel attached to the top on an adjustable mounting. Solar energizers with a larger capacity may require a bigger solar panel and battery, mounted separately from the energizer. The flexibility of the separate battery and solar panel will be especially useful if you need to reposition the solar panel away from the shade of nearby trees or would like to mount the panel on a raised pole.

Fence energizers powered by an external 12-volt battery typically cost half the price of energizers with a smaller built-in battery and solar panel. This price savings can help offset the added cost of buying a separate external battery, solar charge controller, and solar panel. Not only does this approach allow the use of a wider selection of solar panels, but the larger battery provides weeks of stand-alone operation during extended periods of low sunlight.

More expensive solar energizers may offer optional features, such as a digital display or meter, selective output levels, system trouble alarms, increased lightning protection, and a lower output at night to save battery charge. Large solar energizers are designed to be mounted on a wooden post, and only require connecting a jumper wire to the fence and a ground rod. Smaller, self-contained solar energizers intended for temporary electric fencing applications are designed to be placed directly on the ground and don’t require a fixed mounting.

A solar fence energizer has a low power drain on the battery because the output power is pulsed on and off, rather than remaining continuously energized. This cycling allows time for the power circuits to increase the 12-volt battery voltage to more than 5,000 volts, which is then discharged in short pulses. In addition, this pulsing effect provides more shock value to an animal in the form of multiple “stings,” rather than a single continuous discharge.

The three disadvantages of using a solar-powered electric fence energizer include the need to locate the solar panel where it will receive lots of sun; the higher cost; and the occasional replacement of the battery. However, high-quality, sealed absorbed glass mat (AGM) batteries and gel-cell batteries will power an energizer for four or more years before replacement is necessary.

If you’re already using a grid-connected energizer, converting to solar power will be very easy. It will require replacing your 120-volt AC energizer with a self-contained solar energizer with its own battery and solar panel. Unlike your existing grid-connected energizer, your solar energizer can be located almost anywhere with ample sun.

Installation

After placing or mounting the solar energizer, position the solar panel for maximum performance — typically with the panel’s face oriented either due south or southwest. A tilt angle equal to the latitude of your location will provide the best overall year-round performance for most homesteads. This will be in the 30- to 40-degree range for the southern half of the United States, and the 40- to 50-degree range for the northern half.

The battery-charging output of any solar panel will be substantially reduced by the shadow cast by even a small branch onto a very small part of the panel. While the solar panel will most likely be in total shade during the very early morning and late afternoon hours (when the sun is lower on the horizon and shadows are long), you should try your best to avoid any shading between 9 a.m. and 4 p.m., when the sun is highest in the sky.

If you plan to assemble your own custom system, make sure your fence energizer is designed for the voltage of the external battery you want to use. A sealed recreational vehicle (RV) or marine battery will provide many more days of operation during long periods of cloudy weather than a model with a smaller internal battery. Maintenance-free deep-cycle batteries are designed for continuous charge and discharge cycling. Car batteries have much thinner plates to reduce weight and aren’t designed for this constant cycling.

I prefer using either a sealed AGM or gel-cell battery instead of a wet-cell battery. Because they’re totally sealed, they can be mounted in any position, and there’s no danger of an animal tipping them over and spilling liquid acid. A BCI Group No. 22NF sealed battery that has a 55-amp-hour capacity is more than adequate for energizing miles of electric fencing and can store extra power for locations that experience weeks of cloudy weather. This is a significantly longer operating period than is possible with the 6- to 10-amp-hour internal battery typically included with most packaged solar energizers.

When selecting a solar panel to keep your energizer battery charged, make sure it’s rated for 12-volt charging. Typically, the nameplate will list a 21-volt DC open-circuit voltage and a 17-volt charging voltage. A solar panel rated at 6 to 10 watts should be able to maintain the battery for an energizer rated at 0.3 to 0.5 joule, while a solar panel rated at 12 to 20 watts should be able to maintain the battery for an energizer rated at 1 to 2 joules. Which you choose will ultimately depend on the size of your fenced area, your climate conditions, and your latitude.

Grounding

Anytime an animal comes in contact with an energized fence wire, they’re completing an electrical circuit. Unfortunately, one of the most neglected areas of electric fence installation is properly grounding the system.

The ground rod is typically a copper-clad steel rod driven into the earth next to the energizer. Grounding is a major part of the electrical path from the animal back to the energizer, and must be installed correctly, otherwise this electrical circuit won’t be complete. Fenced areas that stay slightly damp year-round may only require one ground rod, while very dry climates may require multiple ground rods (typically spaced at least 10 feet apart) to achieve adequate ground contact. These ground rods are the same as those used for grounding a home’s electrical service and should be driven 6 to 8 feet into the earth.

Testing and Maintenance

After you’ve installed the fence, ground rods, and solar-powered fence energizer, and properly positioned the solar panel, it’s time to test. This task will be best performed using a high-voltage fence tester. These typically cost less than $10 — cheap insurance for keeping your valuable animals from heading to town. As you walk along the fence line, check the output of each wire and note any section of wire that’s not energized or that has a low voltage level.

If any objects, tree branches, or tall weeds come in contact with an electrified fence, they can drain off voltage and significantly lower the shock value, or even short all the voltage to ground. Walk your fence line regularly and keep all weeds and tall grass at least 5 feet away from either side of the fencing. You’ll also want to check around the solar panel to make sure that weeds or bushes haven’t grown tall enough to shade any part of it.

As with any electrically energized equipment, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s installation and safety instructions, and never rely totally on any electric fence to keep animals away from cliffs, highways, or deep bodies of water. You should still use traditional metal or wood fencing in conjunction with electric fencing for property boundaries, and use electric for internal division of pastures, gardens, and temporary grazing areas. You can even attach new solar-powered electric fencing to existing wood or metal fencing using the proper insulators. With a reasonable level of maintenance, your solar-powered fencing system should provide many years of trouble-free performance.

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Check our our list of frequently asked questions below. If you have more questions about the usage of electric fence equipment and/or components, please feel free to contact us.

Questions:

1. How does an electric fence work?
2. How does a ground work?
3. How important is the grounding system?
4. How many grounding rods do I need to make my fence work? How do I install them?
5. How do I select the correct sized energizer?
6. What are volts, amps and joules?
7. What does low impedance mean?

1. How does an electric fence work?
An electric fence is simply a large open circuit waiting to be closed. The electric fence energizer or charger sends a high voltage pulse of electric energy through the wire, tape or rope at short intervals, usually between one and two seconds. The circuit is closed when an animal, which is standing on the ground, touches the fence. The electric energy in the fence wire flows from the fence, through the animal’s body and to the ground causing the animal to be shocked. The animal will only respect the shock if both the voltage and energy are at proper levels. Environmental, fence and ground conditions influence the level of shock received. It takes a minimum of 700 volts to effectively control short haired breeds of cattle, pigs and horses while it takes about 2,000 volts for long haired cattle, sheep and goats. Depending on the type and breed of animal, it may take multiple shocks from an electric cattle fence before they are fully trained to have respect for the electric fence.

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2. How does a ground work?
Upon leaving the electric fence energizer, the electric current travels along the wires and connections of the solar electric fence. It is seeking all possible routes back to Earth. These routes include animals, people grass etc. When an animal comes in contact with the wire on a livestock electric fence, the energy passes through its body and returns to the ground causing an electric shock.

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3. How important is the grounding system?

The grounding system is a vital part of the system enabling the correct return of electrical pulses (from the electric fence energizer) through the animal from the contact point on the fence to the ground. Without a sufficient ground, the electric fence will be limited in effectiveness of providing a “shock”.

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4. How many grounding rods do I need to make my fence work? How do I install them?
Grounding rods should be at least 6 feet long. Even though one grounding rod may work, it is recommended for best results to use 3 rods spaced 10-12 feet apart. The first rod should be within 25-50 feet from the energizer and driven down deep into the earth. The larger your fence, the more grounding rods you should have since more grounding rods increase the shock potential. Connect the rods together and then connect them to the energizer ground terminal using highly conductive wire (the wire should be a minimum of 12.5 ga in diameter). Water the ground after installation and during dry spells if necessary.

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5. How do I select the correct sized energizer?
The energizer must deliver sufficient shock in proportion to the requirements placed on it. The power output should be selected based on the following calculations. Location of electric fence energizer (access to A/C power), type of animals, length of the above-ground or underground electric fence, number for strands of wire, conductivity of wire, vegetation present on the fence and soil conditions for grounding.

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6. What are volts, amps and joules?
Volts or voltage is the driving force behind the flow of electricity in a wire. It is often related to the pressure water has in a pipe. The more pressure pushing water through a pipe is analogous to the voltage pushing energy through a conductor.

Amps or amperage is the measurement of electrical current through a wire. It is the current or amps that determine the strength of the shock felt from a permanent or temporary electric fence. The higher the amps of current, the higher the strength of the shock. Continuing the water pipe analogy, amps is roughly like the flowrate of water coming out of the end of the pipe.

A joule (pronounced jewel) is a unit of work or energy. It is the energy expended in one second by a current of one amp at a potential of one volt. One joule is equal to one watt of power in one second.

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7. What does low impedance mean?
Energizers that are low impedance energizers have the ability to regulate their output and maintain a constant voltage supply to the fence even as the grounding and fence conditions deteriorate as well as increased vegetation contact. This means as more vegetation draws amperage from the electric fence (short circuiting or grounding the fence), a low impedance energizer will produce more energy or joules to overcome this loss due to plants while maintaining adequate levels for animal control.

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Electric fences are easily adapted to most applications and can be installed temporarily or permanently. These fences are relatively easy to maintan and economical to build. However, they require routine inspection and maintenance to ensure proper operation and protection capability.

How an electric fence works

For electricity to flow in a system, such as an electric fence, there must be a complete and uninterrupted (closed) circuit. The electrical current must travel from its source (fence energizer) through the circuit (fence) and back to the source. This flow only occurs when a charged wire of the fence becomes grounded.

Under normal operating conditions, an electric fence functions as an incomplete (open) circuit with repeating pulses of electricity generated by the energizer sent through the charged wires of the fence. When an animal touches a charged wire, it grounds the fence, creating a closed circuit. An electrical pulse travels through the animal and back to the energizer, delivering a shock to the animal.

The electric shock is unpleasant to animals (and humans, too), but is not lethal. However, if an animal gets caught in a fence for an extended period, it may dies of stress. An electric fence is humane, since it can only shock the animal if it persists in making contact; once the contact is broken, the fence does not ‘spit’ at the animal.

Other objects and materials including vegetation, sticks, fallen trees and non-insulated posts in contact with charged wires can also create a partial or total closed circuit. This partial or closed circuit can result in a reduced electrical charge (voltage) and an inadequate shock to repel predators that contact charged wires of the fence. Fences should be checked and maintained regularly to address this potential problem.

Electric Fence Designs

An effective electric fence for predator control consits of:

• a source of the high-voltage signal, called an “energizer”, that may be operated by a solar cell, a batter or, peferably, may be plugged into the domestic system -this generates short, highly peaked pulses of elctricity

• a live wire, or wires, of high tensile steel that carry the pulses around the enclosed area

• posts, that can be made of cedar, steel, or fiberglass, depending on budget and topography

• a grounding system, starting at the energizer, one side of whose output is grounded through a system of low resistance ground rods, which should be carried along with the live wire around the enclosed area

• insulation, to insulate the live wire from accidentl contact with the ground, whish would short it out, and render it ineffective

• tension springs on long stretches, to limit the mechanical tension in the wires as they contract when air temperature drops

• lightning protectors, since the live wires are exposed to lighning strokes and induction from power lines

For more detailed information on fence design and fence line selection and preparation:

The Living with Wildlife Foundation has prepared an excellent Electric Fencing Guide which contains information about electric fencing designs that can be used to help deter predators, including bears, mountain lions and wolves. Click to download.

Link – Electric Fence Manual by Stafix

Download – Protecting Livestock from Predation with Electric Fences, an Agri-Facts publication from the Alberta Department of Agriculture, Food and Rural Development.

Download – Tech Tips on Electric Fence Systems, a publication of USDA Forest Service

Landfills

Electrifying your landfill should, not only be mandatory, but should be one of your first considerations. A well-designed and properly installed electric fence will prevent bears from accessing your landfill. There are some special considerations that should be considered when electrifying such a highly attractive site. You will need to consider bears digging underneath the fence. To prevent digging, you can lay down horizontal fencing one foot below the surface.

Bears also have a habit of entering the gate when it is left open and often get caught inside. There are a couple of options to prevent access through open gates: (1) automatic sliding gates that open and close when the weight of a vehicle passes over the entrance, and (2) electrified cattle grate entrance. Of these two options, the second will be more effective and easier from a human-use standpoint.

The post Bears and electric fence appeared first on Cyclops Electric Fence Chargers and Energizers.

How to protect your fence:

Cyclops energizers have the worlds best lightning protection. Also, cyclops fencers use inline fuses on both the fence and incoming power ends. Lightning strikes can effect the fencer from the power in. Since many farms are located at the ends of power lines, the power surges can come in and blow up the energizer.

What you can do:

We recommend that all energizers be on surge protectors. With the cyclops brand, rest assure that your fence charger will last the best under the worst conditions that Mother Nature sends us. Be safe when storms come in, get out of the weather and seek shelter.
Remember that Cyclops electric fence charger are there working to keep you electric fence working and your farm successful.

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1. 1. Does the law allow landowners to clear 10 feet on each side of the boundary fence? Missouri has had the tradition of cleaning out 10 feet on each side to maintain the fence for over 100 years. Unfortunately, it is a tradition and not a law so legally, no, you cannot if the neighbor opposes. It makes good sense to do so since trees and brush may obstruct the fence and either landowner could be held liable by the other for repair of the fence.
   2. Should a new fence automatically be placed on the surveyed line if there is a survey? This is a common misconception and occurs often. If a fence has been in place for 10 years or more, then it becomes the boundary line in all likelihood. It is known as “adverse possession” and is a legal term and court process. A new landowner who had a survey done cannot move the fence to where the survey is, in the case of an existing fence of more than 10 years, without a neighbor’s consent. If no fence is in place, then the fence can be placed on the survey line. Alternatives include a mutual agreement among neighbors or including specific wording on both deeds. Joe Koenen, ag business specialist in Putnam County can be contacted for this specific wording.
   3. If livestock is not owned, who is responsible for the boundary fence? The answer depends on the county the land is located. The updated general fence law states landowners who do not own livestock are not legally required to contribute to a boundary fence. Ninety-five counties in Missouri currently have adopted the updated general fence law. Nineteen counties have opted out of the general law and are local option fence law counties. In these counties, if one landowner requires a boundary fence because of the possession of livestock, then the other(s) are legally obligated to contribute and pay for their portion.
   4. Is it a good idea to place a fence inside the property line if an agreement between neighbors cannot be made? A fence needs to be on the property line for several good reasons. First, it serves as the boundary line. Second and more importantly, if the fence is erected ten or twenty feet inside the property line, one may have avoided paying for half of the neighbor’s fence in general law counties, but it comes at a potentially high cost. If the fence within the property line stays there for ten years or more and the neighbor utilizes it somehow (pasture, hunt, cut wood) then ownership may change under adverse possession.
   5. If one cannot afford one-half of the fence then who is responsible? The law is very clear as far as who is responsible for building and maintaining a boundary fence. The fact someone does not have the funds currently does not matter. In those cases, one will have to work out something with the neighbor or a lender.
   6. The neighbor wants a woven wire fence, who is responsible for extra fence costs? If one is required to contribute to the fence, the law specifies the contribution of a legal fence depending on the general or option law. One is still required to pay for what one-half of the legal fence cost but anything above that (woven wire, fifteen foot tall fence, etc.) would be the total cost of the neighbor requiring it.

Missouri’s fence law is very complicated and can be confusing. It is critical to know the county’s fence law. University of Missouri Extension has two guides on the law, guide 811 Missouri’s Fencing and Boundary Laws: Frequently Asked Questions (http://extension.missouri.edu/p/G811) and guide 810 Missouri’s Fencing and Boundary Laws (http://extension.missouri.edu/p/G810). Joe Koenen can be contacted for specific questions at 660) 947-2705 or email koenenj@missouri.edu

Source: Joe Koenen, Ag Business Specialist

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Send us your photos or notes. We will publish your fence ideas and advice to other cyclops electric fence charger owners at our web site, www.cyclopsfence.com and at www.cyclopselectricfence.com

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Each year we see a rush to get electric fence up and hot. Cyclops fencers have done a great job for us and our livestock fence customers. We really like the fact that they are well made and once they leave our store here at Valley Farm Supply, we have a customer for life, since they do what they promise. They are also made in america with american parts!!! that is a big bonus for all of us. Taylor Fence is Alabama has been a great partner and provided us with excellent support and service.

So, the next fence charger you buy, MAKE SURE YOU BUY A CYCLOPS FENCE CHARGER from us here at Valley Farm Supply…It will be the last fence charger you buy for sure…

Thank you for your patronage of our business!!

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It must be the year or the fact that cheaper electric fence energizer die so much more quickly than a high quality cyclops fencer. We have sold Cyclops brand fence chargers for several years now, and we grow our business more every year.. Its great to offer a well made fence charger that puts out a lot of joules and power, at a affordable price.

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